Carmen Consoli’s “Must”

“I read that the philosopher Empedocles, speaking about our eating habits, claimed that “Sicilians eat as if they are going to die tomorrow”. The words of the philosopher from Agrigento are still as true today. In this comment there is a scathing observation on the customs and traditions of our people used to attributing food a kind of sacred value, as if it were the most important ritual of the day. As if we had to stuff ourselves with who knows what, prey to excessive anxiety to devour, consume and – let me say it – consume ourselves. I say this because beyond the extraordinary cuisine that my city offers, it is necessary to think about the dangers of certain foods, of the excessive consumption of food, an aspect about which many distinguished scholars have launched a cry of alarm. Having said that, I know well that it is not easy to resist the delicacies of my homeland which means that every now and then you can make an exception and give in to the temptation of our cuisine!

When you go back after a long tour and you feel the weight of both the joys and the tiredness of long journeys, you land at Fontanarossa airport and you feel a sudden rush of energy that is sea and lava, water and fire. Catania winks at you straight away, the strength of our silent language and without realising you find yourself seated at a table in the Quaranta ice-cream shop savouring an excellent, almond granita. It’s my area which just happens to be the heart of Catania, Piazza Teatro Massimo, my past – “Carmen give granny your hand and she’ll take you to eat Saint Agatha’s olives” (green almond sweets that are shaped like olives).

Every time I go back to Sicily and I have time to take a look around my area never fails to surprise me for the creativity of the people, often used to reinventing themselves to survive especially now that Catania seems to be less appealing than a few years ago.

A part from the restaurants renowned and acclaimed by Gambero Rosso I would like to point out a few small more traditional restaurants in the centre where you can sample good typical Sicilian cuisine.

One recommended stop for lunch is in via Biondi, at the Trattoria da Nino, where you can sample a really special “caponata” (aubergines, olives and peppers seasoned with herbs) without forgetting the rest of the selected and attractive menu: octopus, “pasta alla catanese” (macaroni type pasta with tomato sauce, sliced aubergines topped with salty ricotta and basil), tuna and sword fish steak.

If however you can get away from the city centre I really recommend going to Acicastello, to the Royal Chef del Lido Acquarius restaurant in via Pezzana. There, welcomed by the friendliness and professionalism of the management, you’ll be surprised by the young chef who prepares choreographic and delicious dishes that mix a touch of tradition with a dash of innovation.

In the afternoon it becomes a must for health to go for a jog for at least an hour: this is something I can’t and don’t want to miss both when I’m on tour as well as when I’m in Catania, far away from the car horns and the noise of the city centre and just a stone’s throw away from the sea.

The afternoon can offer a lot to see for a tourist that can spend a few days in Catania. I suggest you go and visit Villa Bellini and then go on to the historical kiosks in Piazza Umberto, to quench your thirst with a few of the typical Catanese drinks.

Not to be missed is a pleasant trip to Musicland, a music shop where you will be serenaded by the music choice of Nico Libra, a friend of mine that lives for music because he loves it so much.

The evening in Catania has something interesting for all tastes: from pubs that still show live music which appeal to all tastes, to places for artistic and cultural events like those organised by Reba, in via Sangiuliano.

For dinner you’re spoilt for choice: I get pizza from the Taverna Coppola, where they also do pizza with khorosan flour.

If you want to stay in the city centre area I suggest the Pentolaccia restaurant which is also in via Coppola: during the spring time I recommend eating outside in the ancient Piazza delle Belle, in the heart of the San Berillo area.

In this area the luxury of the new hotel buildings mixes with poverty, the eccentricity of the place is stifled in the modesty of the people that live there, just like the rest of Sicily, an island of contrasts.

The menu at the Pentolaccia is often recited aloud because every day there is a new, fresh dish on the menu: I nevertheless vote for the “pennette alla catanese”, pasta with anchovies, tomatoes, pine nuts, fennel and grated breadcrumbs which are added directly on the plate.

Enjoy this land by giving it the love and respect that its history deserves.